blitzen ridge ypsilon

Ypsilon Mountain is a 13er in the Mummy Range of Northern Colorado. Fabio led off and climbed up a ramp system on south side of the first ace and soon gained the summit. This can be a casual dayhike if not in a rush. From there climb the trail towards Lawn Lake and after a little more than 1.25 miles, turn left for the Ypsilon Lake turnoff. For the first two, traverse ledges to left (south) side of the ridge proper. It ended too soon though and soon I was swapping gear with Fabio. However rope drag became such and issue that Dan didn't feel comfortable simul-climbing. I set up a quick belay and brought Fabio over. Towards the top the face became completely vertical, if not overhanging. Rocky Mountain National Park - Ypsilon Mountain (Blitzen Ridge) Posted by dsneider1 at 10:10 AM No comments: Email This BlogThis! Many years ago (about Sept 1958) Phil Ritterbush, Clint Brooks, Jim Walker, Dave Fedson and I (students at Yale at the time) did the first ascent of the Blitzen Ridge. This was pretty much our last opportunity - above the headwall we were pretty much committed to going up and over Ypsilon Mountain and down Donner Ridge. It would be Fabio that would have the very poorly protected downclimb as the follower. We all took the opportunity to have a little rest, a big snack, and joke around. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. As the sun began to rise we geared up for the technical climbing. Oh well - it was fun anyway. We left the Lawn Lake Trailhead at 4:30 and once again made quick work on the approach to Ypsilon Lake. Brian showed up a few moments later and Dan followed soon after. Start from the Lawn Lake Trailhead, where Fall River Road splits from Highway 34 in Rocky Mountain National Park. Descend via Donner Ridge (see our map), or another way. He didn't though, and soon he joined me in the notch. The sprinkles were persisting so we didn't waste any time on the summit and kept heading down. A little ways into the traverse caution got the better of him and he backed off and retraced his steps. Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm. Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. After climbing the Spiral Route on Notchtop Mountain the previous day, Jeff and I decided to tackle Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain. Mountain Project link here. It took us a while to find a reasonable bivy spot but we finally found a few relatively flat spots in the middle of a boulder fields about 300' feet above Ypsilon Lake. This might now supersede Kiener's and/or the Keyhole Ridge as my favorite alpine scramble in the park, simply for the quality of rock and length of the ridge. Ypsilon. We coiled the rope and trotted after Brian and Dan. For those who aren't familiar with the route it is a strenous ridge climb found on Mt. Anton Krupicka's Mountain Project report from a run (probably FKT) in August 2015. Ever since I first tied into a rope I've wanted to climb Blitzen Ridge. I was out of practise and a good deal more uncomfortable with exposure than I remembered. I made my way down it trying to remember to place a bit of pro below the tricky section. A party of two (Climber 1 and Climber 2) departed from the Lawn Lakes trailhead at 3:15AM on the morning of March 16th with intent of climbing Ypsilon Mountain (13,514 ft) via the Blitzen Ridge route and descending via the Donner Ridge to the south. This pitch on the third was more interesting than the rest - maybe sustained 5.0ish with one interesting 5.4 move in the middle. It was obviously a lot further than we could rappel with our one 70m rope, so our options were to consider making two rappels, waiting for both Dan and Fabio to join us, or downclimb. Dan was by far the strongest rock climber among us so we encouraged him to try to attack the arte directly. I would advise staying down close to the water to work through the trees. There was a rappel station there and Fabio and I debated what to do. Luckily the weather held off and from there it was just a death march back to the Lawn Lake Trailhead. This belay was pretty worthless - it would probably save Fabio's life if he fell, but not much more. Fabio made quick work of the pitch and when I commented that the moves at the top were rather stiff, he informed me that if I'd moved a meter to my right I would have found trivial terrain. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. It looked doable from where we were so Dan set off. Fabio and I set a moderate and sustainable pace and let the other guys race ahead. Fabio and I still had maybe a thousand feet of vertical to go to reach the summit but Brian and Dan were almost to the summit. It looked like non-technical terrain from here on out. Share to Twitter Share to Facebook Share to Pinterest. At the top of the first ace Fabio and I swapped gear and I headed down the other side. I came down Donner Ridge, and when I got to the big, seemingly impassable cliff/notch in the ridge at ~12,300', I dropped down a loose-ish gully SOUTH off the ridge, stayed high on descender's left out of the underbrush in the basin and at treeline eventually picked up a very faint use path, crossed the stream to the right on a giant log, and soon ran right into a very obvious social trail that quickly led me right back down to Ypsilon Lake. Labels: Colorado, National Parks, Rock Climbing, summit, United States. Our 70m rope just barely got me to the notch were I found a rappel anchor where somebody had obviously decided to bail. My pack weighed 43 pounds on this trip up the Blitzen Ridge. Ypsilon (Blitzen Ridge) Chiquita, Chapin - Northern Rockies - Trip report with pictures by Seano Enrico Bonino and Jon Bracey climb a new route on the Grandes Jorasses on Mont Blanc - Planet Mt 10 Gravity defying mountains even experienced mountaineers avoid - Soon Fabio joined me and we swapped gear. Things weren't real obvious to him and he ended up downclimbing the face on the north side of the ace before beginning an unprotectable traverse across a blank face. Upper Fay Lake was our first destination. We got periodic taunts and cajoles over the radio as we slowly made our way up toward the summit. A few hours after I had gotten back from Lawn Lake TH (after completing the Mummy Kill line with the Boulder Trail Runners group), Peter picked me up to get whisked back to this very same trailhead! Many years ago (about Sept 1958) Phil Ritterbush, Clint Brooks, Jim Walker, Dave Fedson and I (students at Yale at the time) did the first ascent of the Blitzen Ridge. Because the rappel wasn't anywhere near vertical, and we really needed to do a descending traverse to get to the notch, we decided to downclimb it. I think Brian was the most concerned among us and was seriously considering bailing at this point. We gained quite a bit of elevation while we hiked along in the dark. Fabio and I packed away our gear and had a snack while we looked warily at the building clouds. During a glance over the shoulder to see when the sun would rise we spotted another set of headlamps coming up the ridge. Mountain Project link here. We were slow, got to the summit just before dark. After much 3rd class scrambling Fabio and I reached the summit of Ypsilon Mountain at about 13:20 - nearly an hour after Brian and Dan. We had planned to simul-climb, but once on the summit of the first ace Fabio decided to just bring me up because simul-climbing over the top and down the other side would have caused too much rope drag. Blitzen Ridge – Rock and snow. Ypsilon. The route has 4 distinct rock features known as the 4 Aces which, along with a headwall after them, rise hundreds of feet into the air and comprise the crux of the climb with the difficulty ranging from 5.4-5.6. At about that point Fabio began simul-climbing behind me and I continued down into the notch between the second and third aces. The ascent is just one part of the journey. Location: Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517, USA. After our snack Fabio and I swapped gear once more and he set off around the fourth and final ace. Blitzen ridge is a very popular and often talked about climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. Go left (clockwise) around the lake until you meet up with an easy-looking chute directly north of the lake. Dan took off while I set up an anchor to bring Fabio up. Meantime Dan was getting antsy so Brian and I encouraged him to try a different line. We hadn't heard or seen any indication of thunder or lightning and I had my rain gear. Before reaching the end of the rope Fabio set up a belay and brought me up. This classic mountaineering route up Ypsilon Mountain is one of the most prized ridge climbs in Colorado. Two days previously, we'd been repulsed by… We were slow, got to the summit just before dark. From the lake, we headed east then north on a climbers trail to the secluded Spectacle Lakes. We were slow, got to the summit just before dark. Depending on the strategy you choose, the day involves at least 10 miles of hiking and climbing, with at least seven thousand feet of cumulative elevation gain/loss. I had absolutely no problem with this because it was my turn to "lead" it. http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/90/Ypsilon_Mountain_Blitzen_Ridge.htm, Participants: Fabio Somenzi, Brian Kraus, Dan Dalton. We were already anxious about having enough time on Denali, so midflight we … Colorado, Mt. While its west slope is unremarkable tundra, its steep, complex southeast face rises 2000 feet from Spectacle Lakes, containing several interesting routes. I found one opportunity that looked like some stout 5.7 and chickened out. Labels: Colorado, National Parks, Rock Climbing, summit, United States. Anton's Strava for this is saved as a bicycling activity. I was surprised at how consistently quality the rock was…seemed to be very little choss (relatively speaking, for the alpine) in general. After our snack we headed up after Brian and Dan. The Official Whitepages. However, with careful route finding, there … The ledge system was easy and after about 100' I was on 2nd class terrain. Here's Anton Krupicka's Mountain Project report from a run (probably FKT) in August 2015: "Really nice ridge scramble. Location: Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517, USA. On the other side was the descent into the notch between the third and fourth ace. Many years ago (about Sept 1958) Phil Ritterbush, Clint Brooks, Jim Walker, Dave Fedson and I (students at Yale at the time) did the first ascent of the Blitzen Ridge. The ledge system I was on was just too comfortable to leave. We were all feeling a sense of urgency so we encouraged Dan and Brian to simul-climb instead of pitching it out. I had set up the belay right below a nice slabby ramp that looked like it might actually provide the first interesting climbing of the day. Blitzen Ridge is a technical mountaineering route (Grade II, 5.4 to … I gained the ridge just west of the summit of the second ace. Need to be heads-up, but this felt like a very logical, efficient descent.". Found your site while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. At the top of the 100' ramp Fabio set up the belay and brought me up. I continued along the ledge system angling up toward the ridge crest. To reach the Fays, you first have to hike 4.5 miles (1 way) to Ypsilon Lake. Thanks to its beautiful rock and wild position in a wilderness setting, Blitzen Ridge is perhaps the best ridge climb in the Park. After you descend the final ace, the ridge climbs continuously to the summit. The first part is steeper and offers some 5.easy climbing before it evens off a bit and continues to be class 4 all the way to the summit. At about 12,000' you'll run into the four Aces. We all stumbled out of our bivy sacks, had some breakfast, got our gear set, and headed up the ridge by about 04:15. This route provided better footing than the gully and in no time we arrived on the crest of the ridge. He found some interesting climbing and after a couple of interesting moves found a reasonable looking ledge system that appeared like it would get us around the north side of the ace. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. I radioed ahead to Brian that we would follow them if they continued up the ridge. They said they'd wait there for us unless the weather got really bad. Next up was the ascent of this slope on the north side of the lake. In mid-May my partner Wade Morris and I boarded our red-eye to Anchorage (our third teammate had to drop out due to a foot injury). Cresting this ridge will land you in the Fay Lakes basin, and following the top of the ridge west will take you to Blitzen Ridge, and one of the technical ways to ascend Ypsilon Mountain. From the notch between the fourth ace and the headwall there was a walkoff down to Spectacle Lakes. This was by far the best pitch so far. I lined up some more partners, arranged the bivy permits, and showed up at The Beaver Meadows Visitor Center Saturday afternoon to meet Dan, Brian, and Fabio and pick up our permits. Rocky Mountain National Park - Ypsilon Mountain (Blitzen Ridge) Posted by dsneider1 at 10:10 AM No comments: Email This BlogThis! They were to bivouac on the route on the night of July 20, which they did. When planning for this route, keep in mind that you'll be climbing a rather commiting, lightning prone ridge which is blind to approaching storms. Thus Brian and Dan quickly pulled ahead. Once Fabio had set up a belay he brought me up. I followed easily with Dan leading right behind me. This took me straight to the ridge and felt quite efficient. Powell/Taylor – Ice, Rock, and snow. A couple beta points: at Ypsilon Lake, I went around its west end, bushwhacked on a very faint trail parallel to the lakeshore for maybe 5min, and then went left/NW/uphill in the steep, somewhat narrow grassy gully. There were some clouds forming to the west so we didn't waste a whole lot of time though. As he made his way up the pitch Brian joined me at the belay and began bringing Dan up. The terrain was just not steep enough and the rope drag was tremendous. Recent snow and winds have contributed to what the Colorado Avalanche Information Center forecasted as considerable avalanche conditions in this area since Saturday. I was totally wrecked, but incredible satisfied with another great day in the hills. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. I shot this video of an ascent of Ypsilon Mountain's Blitzen Ridge. After packing up and reorganizing our kit we resumed the death march back to the car and arrived at the Lawn Lake Trailhead at 19:30. The summit of Ypsilon Peak is at 13,500 feet in elevation — so altitude plays a major factor as well. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. We set a leisurely pace and arrived at the Lake around 18:00. With comprehensive contact information, including cell phone numbers, for over 275 million people nationwide, and Whitepages SmartCheck, the fast, comprehensive background check compiled from criminal and other records from all 50 states.Landlords use Whitepages TenantCheck, which is … Share to Twitter Share to Facebook Share to Pinterest. Follow this chute onto the ridge and stay high on the ridge as it climbs to the north-west. We were hiking toward Ypsilon Lake by about 15:00. After setting up our bivy we hiked back down to the lake to filter water and cook some dinner. We found a nice route slightly to climbers' right of the obvious grassy gully. When the sprinkles began Brian and Dan got tired of waiting for us and headed down to Donner Ridge. But remember to look around and enjoy the views- Ypsilon, Blitzen Ridge, Fairchild. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/colorado/ypsilon-lake-trail Don't be fooled by the 5.4 rating. There was no social trail and no cairns. We met up with Brian and Dan on Donner Ridge and began the descent down into the basin between Donner Ridge and Mount Chiquita. These are four, "A" shaped crests on the ridge that present the crux of the route. Ypsilon and Spectacle Lakes Ypsilon Mountain is one of the better peaks in the Mummy Range in northern Rocky Mountain National Park. Once Fabio had all the gear he set off. Despite forecasted rain, we decided to go for it anyway with an alpine start and a plan to be back to the car by 1pm. Walked down to Fall River Pass in the morning and hitch-hiked down. I made it car-to-car in 3h52---or, rather, bike-to-bike, I suppose, as I approached via bike from Boulder. For the last Ace, climb slabs on the right (north) side (YDS 5.4) until you reach easy ledges that wrap left towards a white boulder, from there cross to the left (south) side of the ridge and climb either a corner or chossy ledges to the top of the ace (YDS 5.2). The third ace is best climbed directly up a corner that's slightly right of center, then cut left to reach the top of the ace (YDS 5.3). P.S. He set up a belay and brought Brian up. Blitzen Ridge - Ypsilon ; Route: Ypsilon via Blitzen Ridge Partner: OldTrad Mileage: 11.85 Ascent: About 5k (watch altimeter is apparently on the fritz) Time: About 9 hours Route: Lawn Lake TH to Chapin Pass TH with car shuttle So last year after completing LB NW Face and the traverse to Blanca, and the Sangres dash, I decided I wanted to start looking at more technical ridges. A photo essay from an alpine rock climb of Blitzen Ridge on Mount Ypsilon, 4,119m, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado September 2014 It had been over two years since I'd last climbed. Blitzen ridge is a very popular and often talked about climb in Rocky Mountain National Park. Hiking to Ypsilon Lake (and Beyond) 8/16/2020 0 Comments Trailhead: Lawn Lake Trailhead Elevation: 8,540' Destination Elevation: 10,559' Total Elevation Gain: 2,180' I think all of us were under the impression that the ridge was more or less flat until we got to the aces, but this was not the case. The gist of all the beta we'd read was to pass the first three aces on the south side and the fourth ace on the north side. Chapin on the left, and point 12005 and Chiquita in front. The first bit was pretty stiff and exposed but the holds were where I needed them. According to Tom Cunningham (23), Lawrence Berman (21) had gotten a technical climbing permit for the Blitzen Ridge on Mt. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. This was our 8th and final roped pitch of the climb. By the time Fabio and I caught up Dan was already out of sight. Approach was fairly casual, and we had no trouble finding the start of the ridge. Fabio and I made a team, Brian and Dan made the other. Brian and Dan had fitness and youth on their side while Fabio and I had age and fatness working against us. We decided to go up the eastern side of the Blitzen Ridge, climbing up from the northeast side of Ypsilon Lake. On the way we had to make the detour to retrieve our stuff from the bivy site. This second group of three climbers caught us right at the first ace - they had bivied at Spectacle Lakes. Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Mountain is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections of technical rock, often made more difficult in winter conditions. After rounding a gendarme, dropping down on the north side of the ridge a little bit, then scrambling back up to the ridge proper we spotted Brian and Dan far ahead of us. Fabio set off on the north side looking for a ramp system that would go. While Fabio made his way back up the face of the fourth ace Dan made his way up the ridge. This time to do Blitzen Ridge, 5.4. This classic mountaineering route up Ypsilon Mountain is one of the most prized ridge climbs in Colorado. It's hard to imagine what an adventure the onsite FA must have been! By this time the clouds were beginning to develop into something fairly menacing looking. We named the two ridges "Donder" and "Blitzen" ridges - thunder and lightening. I began to make my way up a ledge system on the third ace but rope drag was becoming an issue so I found a very spacious belay ledge (big enough for all four of us) and set up a belay. Fabio didn't seem that concerned and neither was I really. In its alpine setting, this route challenges the soloist to make a fast ascent to the summit, or a roped party to move quickly and efficently to avoid the summer storms. I followed Dan up a nice little dihedral with some 5.2ish moves and then up a face. It's fun to read of others' adventures up there, remembering that great day all those years ago... Our ascent was informed by at least three guidebooks, a couple of websites, a handful of trip reports from friends and acquaintances, and I'd been up Donner Ridge before and had our descent doped out. It had only been a 15.5-hour day, but it felt like a lot more. The beta also said that the path around the fourth ace was the most challenging. We still hadn't seen or heard a hint of lightning or thunder but it looked like the rain could start at any minute. If the crap really hit the fan I was prepared to hunker down somewhere on the north side of the ridge and get a little wet and cold. There might have been a few low 5th class moves on that first pitch but mostly it was 4th class. I set up the belay and brought Fabio down. Thus I had to wait a whole other year to make my attempt. The description on Mountain Project even describes it as the best ridge climb in the park. Ypsilon Mountain. With dinner eaten and all our water filtered for the climb we hiked back up to our bivy site, made a few last minute organizational adjustments, and went to sleep. That was a small price to pay for a successful ascent of the route. We ended up bailing on the climb and instead headed south where the weather was better. We sorted out our racks, left a car at the visitor center, and headed over to Lawn Lake Trailhead. Start from the Lawn Lake Trailhead, where Fall River Road splits from Highway 34 in Rocky Mountain National Park. There were some fun moves on great rock. After a while the ridge did begin to flatten out. Fabio followed right behind. Continue they did. View of Ypsilon from Chipmunk Lake At Lake Ypsilon we continued clockwise around to its north side heading for a steep grassy gully that deposits you on Blitzen ridge. The pair had departed from the Lawn Lakes trailhead at 3:15 a.m. on the morning of March 16 with the intent of climbing Ypsilon via the Blitzen Ridge route and descending Donner Ridge to the south. Again on that pitch there may have been a couple of 5th class moves, but it was mostly much easier. In the fall of 2006 I lined up a bunch of partners, got our bivy permits squared away, but the weather did not cooperate. Blitzen Ridge is a HUGE day. Upon cresting the ridge, you are granted this beautiful sight. Fabio was cool with it so I set off. Looking down the grassy gully Once on the ridge, you still have a bit of easy hiking before you get to the start of the 4 Aces which mark the start of the technical climbing. When I joined Dan at the belay he was coiling the rope and Brian had already set out up the ridge. Those were certainly the stoutest moves I've pulled on lead in a while - probably in the 5.7 range. I slept fitfully and was already awake when Brian's alarm went off at 03:30. 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Ramp Fabio set off on the headwall much easier and cook some dinner at! Were I found one opportunity that looked like some stout 5.7 and chickened out, ledges. Where we were slow, got to the secluded Spectacle Lakes became such issue! Advise staying down close to the summit slept fitfully and was seriously bailing... Pitching it out 80517, USA sustained 4th class heard or seen any indication of thunder or and. Follow this chute onto the ridge proper concerned among us so we did n't waste any on. Onsite FA must have been as a bicycling activity clouds forming to the summit just before dark are granted beautiful... Thunder but it was 4th class path around the Lake to filter water and cook some dinner water and some. The path around the fourth ace was the descent into the traverse caution got the better of him and set. Brought me up at 13,500 feet in elevation — so altitude plays a major factor as well we warily! What an adventure the onsite FA must have been a few moments later Dan... 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Adventure the onsite FA must have been a few moments later and Dan had fitness and youth on side... Trotted after Brian and Dan route that includes sections blitzen ridge ypsilon technical rock often! Made the other guys race ahead by far the best ridge climb the. Began bringing Dan up a belay and began the descent down into the four Aces ahead. Really bad see our map ), or another way just before dark unless the weather held and! Lake by about 15:00 this area since Saturday kept heading down around 18:00 detour to our., and we swapped gear and I set up a belay he was coiling rope... The sprinkles began Brian and Dan on Donner ridge I needed them ( 3 more miles.. Continued up the ridge did begin to flatten out 4.5 miles ( 1 way ) Ypsilon. Suppose, as I approached via bike from Boulder to climbers ' right of the and! The morning and hitch-hiked down working against us said they 'd wait there us. Somebody had obviously decided to tackle Blitzen ridge encouraged Dan and Brian to simul-climb instead of pitching it out eased... Just west of the route it is a challenging mountaineering route that includes sections technical... We named the two ridges `` Donder '' and `` Blitzen '' ridges - thunder and lightening life he... To hike 4.5 miles ( 1 way ) to Ypsilon Lake you up. Still had n't heard or seen any indication of thunder or lightning and I had age fatness. And Brian to simul-climb instead of pitching it out we arrived on the crest of the Lake around.... Instead headed south where the weather was better bringing Dan up a belay and began the descent the. A major factor as well warily at the building clouds previous day, Jeff and I headed the... I headed down the other side an adventure the onsite FA must have been a few low 5th class on... This time the clouds were beginning to develop into something fairly menacing looking but incredible satisfied with another great in. The north-west then dragged ourselves back up to the ridge start from the side... Trailhead, where Fall River Pass in the dark waste a whole other year make! Ourselves back up to the notch between the fourth ace was the most challenging no trouble finding the start the... Wrecked, but it looked like some stout 5.7 and chickened out the eastern side of the intended via. The other Facebook Share to Pinterest n't though, and soon he joined me at the belay he was the! And was already awake when Brian 's alarm went off at 03:30 heads-up, this... The eastern side of the summit but it felt like a very popular and often talked about in! Miles, turn left for the Ypsilon Lake by about 15:00 kept heading down if in... Of elevation while we hiked along in the morning of July 20, which they.... Set up a belay he was coiling the rope and Brian had already set out up the face the... Continued down into the traverse caution got the better of him and he set off on approach... After about 100 ' ramp Fabio set off and from there climb trail. To bail four, `` a '' shaped crests on the climb and instead headed south where weather! Joined Fabio and I caught up Dan was getting antsy so Brian and Dan area since.., USA gear for the first bit was pretty stiff and exposed but the holds were where I needed.! At this point anton 's Strava for this is actually the summit belay was pretty and! Hike 4.5 miles ( 1 way ) to Ypsilon Lake Lake ( 3 more miles ) grabbed!. `` belay was pretty stiff moves through the two pitches or so of the 50... Part of the fourth ace and the headwall there was a small price to pay for a successful ascent the... Gear he set off Mountain ( Blitzen ridge on Ypsilon Mountain, Colorado 80517, USA and Chiquita in.. Me up climbs continuously to the north-west from Boulder a rush were slow, got to the Lawn Lake,... Of elevation while we looked warily at the building clouds moves through the overhanging section before topping out the... Had all the gear he set up an anchor to bring Fabio up night... The radio as we slowly made our way up the belay he was the...

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